Antique 18K Gold Brooch with Diamond Flower and Pearl ca. 1870

Antique 18K Gold Brooch with Diamond Flower and Pearl c. 1870

This charming brooch, dated approximately to 1870, is a superb example of Victorian jewelry craftsmanship in 18K gold. At its center is a delicately formed flower composed of five natural diamonds and a reddish central stone, likely a garnet or ruby, all set against a black enamel background in remarkable condition. Above it, a natural pearl is mounted in a gold calyx-like setting, adding gentle elevation to the composition.

The brooch’s structure features an ornate gold frame, beautifully decorated with openwork and volutes arranged in perfect symmetry around the enamel centerpiece. The black enamel serves as an elegant backdrop for the fine gold inlay of botanical motifs, leaves and tendrils distributed in graceful harmony. This kind of work was common in mourning or commemorative jewelry of the 19th century and showcases the high level of craftsmanship of French jewelers from the period.

Despite the passage of time, both the enamel and the brooch’s gold structure are exceptionally well preserved, showing no cracks, chips or significant wear. The original pin mechanism works flawlessly, and the reverse side reveals an untouched, original cavity with no signs of alteration or repair, an important feature for collectors seeking authenticity.

With dimensions of 5.1 x 3.4 cm and a weight of 6.9 grams, this piece is ideal both for wearing on special occasions and as a valuable addition to a fine antique jewelry collection. It is elegant but not excessive, a piece that continues to captivate with its timeless beauty.

An exceptional opportunity to acquire a historic jewel that combines noble materials, exquisite technique and poetic design, all in a rare state of preservation.

Measurements: 5.1 x 3.4 cm (2 x 1.33 in). Weight: 6.9 g.

History of Victorian Enamel and Diamond Brooches

During the second half of the 19th century, particularly in the Victorian era (1837–1901), brooches with enamel and gemstones became emblems of social status and personal sentiment. Black enamel gained popularity after the death of Prince Albert in 1861, when Queen Victoria ushered in the fashion of mourning jewelry. However, not all pieces were made for mourning, many used the striking contrast of black enamel to enhance the brilliance of gold and gemstones.

Brooches of this period reflect the height of French and British goldsmithing, spurred by technical advances in design and ornamentation. The "Grand Tour" style, which drew inspiration from Antiquity and the Renaissance, also influenced jewelry aesthetics. The rise of the middle class during the Industrial Revolution allowed more people to access fine jewelry once reserved for aristocrats.

Enamel was prized not only for its beauty but also for its durability, preserving vibrant colors for over a century. In the finest pieces like this one, old-cut or rose-cut diamonds were arranged symbolically into flowers, stars, or teardrops. Natural pearls added emotional and aesthetic value.

Today, these types of brooches are highly collectible, especially when the enamel remains intact and the piece has not been altered. Their rarity and elegance make them sought-after items for collectors, art historians, and lovers of fine 19th-century jewelry.