Antique 18K Gold Longines Pocket Watch, Switzerland c. 1890

Antique 18K Gold Longines Pocket Watch, Switzerland circa 1890

This distinguished Longines pocket watch, made in Switzerland around 1890, faithfully represents the fine craftsmanship of late 19th-century watchmaking. It is a hunter-style piece with a double cover case crafted in solid 18-karat gold, fully hallmarked and stamped with the EFCO Longines seal. Its surface is richly adorned with a delicate guilloché pattern of floral spirals, typical of Belle Époque high jewelry, lending elegance and refinement to every detail. The suspension bow and crown feature matching engraved motifs that enhance its harmonious aesthetic.

The white enamel dial is in immaculate condition, featuring elegant Arabic numerals and a small independent seconds subdial at six o'clock. The hands are of the Louis XVI style, finely pierced and gilt, showcasing the finesse typical of the most refined timepieces of the period. Beneath the 12 o’clock mark, the LONGINES signature is elegantly printed. The inner rear cover reveals a beautifully engraved second lid featuring the brand’s logo and a reference to the award won at the 1889 Paris Universal Exposition: “GRAND PRIX – Paris 1889”, along with inscriptions referring to the Colimaçon regulation system and Breguet balance spring.

This technical ensemble is far more than an aesthetic or prestigious detail: it offers real enhancements in timekeeping accuracy and reliability. The Colimaçon regulator system, named after its snail-like shape, allows for highly precise adjustments via a micrometric screw that controls the effective length of the hairspring. Unlike simpler regulators, this system provides greater sensitivity and reduces the risk of losing precision due to shocks or wear. The Breguet spring, an innovation by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, features an elevated final coil that ensures a more symmetrical expansion of the spring, leading to improved isochronism in the balance wheel’s oscillation. Combined, these features represent advanced horological technology for the period and were reserved for high-precision timepieces. Their inclusion in this Longines model places it firmly in the upper tier of Swiss production of the late 1800s.

This watch houses a 15-jewel movement protected by the gold inner caseback, which can only be accessed manually, typical of high-end pocket watches of the era. The movement is signed by Longines, in excellent condition and runs with great precision. It features a Breguet balance spring and lever escapement, both hallmarks of Swiss accuracy in the 19th century. The serial number, 607183, engraved inside the case, allows us to date this piece precisely to around 1890.

With a diameter of 49 mm and a weight of 93 grams, this watch has a commanding presence and a substantial feel, reflecting the nobility of its materials. It is in excellent condition with no dents, cracks or damage, aside from minor tool marks near the case edge from normal opening, a testament to its authenticity and over 130 years of history. Far from diminishing its value, these signs of use confirm its genuine heritage.

This Longines watch is a true gem for discerning collectors, and equally ideal for those seeking a unique investment piece or a gift with historical value. Perfect for displaying in a vintage horology collection or for wearing with distinction on special occasions.

A high-value object that would add exquisite character to any curated collection or sophisticated interior.

Measurements: 4.9 cm (1.93 in). Weight: 93 gr.

History of Longines

Longines is one of the oldest and most prestigious watchmaking houses in Switzerland. It was founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and quickly rose to prominence thanks to its commitment to precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. In 1867, it produced its first industrialized caliber, ushering in a new era for Swiss manufacturing. Its pursuit of excellence earned it international recognition early on.

The "Grand Prix – Paris 1889" medal, engraved inside this watch, marks a pinnacle in Longines’ history. That award solidified the brand’s reputation as a leader in mechanical beauty and horological innovation, a distinction few watchmakers could claim at the time. The inscription “Ancre 15 Rubis – Spiral Breguet” is a technical indicator of high quality: the lever escapement and 15 jewels reduce friction and wear, while the Breguet hairspring improves isochronism and long-term accuracy.

In the 20th century, Longines became the official timekeeper for numerous international sporting events and pioneered innovations in Olympic timekeeping. Today, it belongs to the Swatch Group, yet its legacy remains alive in pieces like this one, a testament to Swiss watchmaking excellence, combining functionality, precision and beauty. Watches made before 1900, especially in 18K gold with double covers and technical engravings, are increasingly valued by collectors and featured in top international auctions.